The brainchild of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, New York Fashion Week: Men’s is entering its fifth season. This time around, more than 50 brands will show their spring 2018 collections in the hopes of winning the attention of editors and retail executives as Lower Manhattan becomes a playground for dandies and fops and the street-style photographers who track them.
While the majority of the big brands and luxury houses are content to display their wares in Milan and Paris, the New York iteration of men’s fashion week has become known for its emphasis on scrappy brands from all over the world.
Bruce Pask, the men’s director at Bergdorf Goodman, predicts that there will be lots of easy sportswear at the runway shows and presentations. “That’s always going to be a significant portion of what’s shown here,” Mr. Pask said. “The casual lifestyle and the clothing that goes along with that is an American creation.”
The New York event follows a month of men’s wear shows in London, Paris, Milan and Florence, Italy. While attending those events, Mr. Pask noticed a few changes reflecting a refocusing on proportion likely to be on view here. “We’re looking at clothing that is bigger, a bit more fluid,” he said. “Pants that are full, shorts that are oversized, referencing late ’80s early ’90s fashion, but it’s interpreted.”
Here, we take a quick look at the shows scheduled from July 10 through 14. All events take place at Skylight Clarkson Square in West SoHo unless otherwise noted.
The no-nonsense American designer Todd Snyder has the prime-time slot on Day 1 with a 7 p.m. fashion show followed by an 8 p.m. kickoff party catered by Nicholas Morgenstern of the El Rey. July 10, 7 p.m., Cadillac House, 330 Hudson Street
Just because the Belgian designer Raf Simons serves as the chief creative officer of Calvin Klein does not mean he doesn’t have time for his own brand. Last season’s Raf Simons show in New York, held at the Gagosian Gallery, was much-buzzed-about and laced with messages of political dissent. July 11, 9 p.m., location unknown at time of publication.
Willy Chavarria has found inspiration for his new collection in the Eagle, a Chelsea leather bar. He received a nod from Jay-Z recently, when the rapper dressed one of his actors in a Willy Chavarria T-shirt that reads “Stay Black” in a video to promote his new album “4:44.” July 12, 6 p.m., the Eagle, 554 West 18th Street
Christopher Bevans, the designer of Dyne, has a fellowship at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and has worked on apparel with Kanye West, Billionaire Boys Club, Sean John and Rocawear. July 11, 4 to 5 p.m., Cadillac House, 330 Hudson Street
Maria Jahnkoy, the Siberian-born Brooklyn artist who created this label, was a finalist for the LVHM prize in March and picked up a collaboration deal with Puma. At Bergdorf Goodman, she will unveil a capsule collection called the Messenjah. July 12, 6:30 p.m., Bergdorf Goodman Men’s Store, 754 Fifth Avenue
This is the seventh season for Raun Larose, a native New Yorker, but only his second showing in his hometown. His collections are youthful and gender-agnostic. July 13, 3 to 4 p.m.
This is the second New York men’s week outing for the You As designer Tony Liu, who once dared to accent his collection with Crocs. July 12, 11 a.m.
Death to Tennis
Death to Tennis proffers “adult streetwear” in the form of graphic T-shirts, creatively pocketed Oxford shirts and short-cropped jean jackets (with insignia) on its website, along with short films made by the label’s founders, William Watson and Vincent Oshin. One of them features the Academy Award winner Mahershala Ali. July 11, 6 p.m.
For this collection the designer Jace Lipstein is collaborating with the headwear brand Mitchell & Ness, as well as with his alma matter, Indiana University. Go Hoosiers. July 13, 6 p.m., Dream Downtown, 355 West 16th Street
New Republic by Mark McNairy
The lovably cranky designer Mark McNairy has reinvented men’s footwear several times in his career. His latest contribution is New Republic, a line of affordable loafers, drivers, Oxfords and boots. His bucks are priced at an unusually reasonable $51. He’ll show these, along with brightly patterned belts, ties and socks, and a promotional film. July 11, 8 p.m., 79 Crosby Street
Patrik Ervell’s last collection was heavy on ’90s nostalgia, with lots of rave signifiers (clear plastic rain ponchos). Whatever he is into now, expect Mr. Ervell to come up with a collection that makes a statement while also being something you can actually wear. July 11, 7 p.m.
Ovadia & Sons
In the seven years of their label’s existence, the boys (Shimon and Ariel Ovadia) from Brooklyn have become hometown heroes and a favorite of athletes and the hip-hop set with collections that find a happy medium between streetwear cool and preppy. July 12, 8 p.m.
Gustav von Aschenbach by Robert Geller
This season is the debut of Robert Geller’s new line, Gustav von Aschenbach, named after Thomas Mann’s troubled protagonist in “Death in Venice.” July 11, 12 p.m., Cadillac House, 330 Hudson Street
The department store favorite designed by Michael Maccari has been looking to redefine itself over the past few seasons without alienating fans of the shirt-and-tie basics that form the basis of its sizable business. July 11, 9 to 10 a.m.
The mega-label Hugo Boss, with a men’s line rendered as “BOSS,” is getting around this fashion season, having mounted an elaborate evening runway show in Florence last month during the Pitti Uomo men’s wear exhibition. July 11, 1 p.m.
Look for Theory — part of the Fast Retailing giant that also owns Uniqlo — to continue doing what it does best: creating a uniform for the modern working man. July 13, 5 to 7 p.m.
Nick Graham’s show will have the climate-change-appropriate theme of Atlantis and a soundtrack by the 16-year-old D.J. and composer Truman Gaynes. July 11, 11 a.m. to noon
Last season, the Honduran-born Carlos Campos reinvented the guayabera shirt. Look for more updates on Latin American specialties and staples this time around. July 11, 3 p.m.
The Matiere designer Jake Zeitlin has moved beyond the althleisurewear that made the brand’s reputation with collections that make use of corduroy and references to punk style. July 12, 4 to 5 p.m., Cadillac House, 330 Hudson Street
The New York label Rochambeau is moving toward more sophisticated suits without losing its streetwear influence. July 13, 8 to 10 p.m., Cadillac House, 330 Hudson Street
Palmiers du Mal
The name of this collection from the designers Brandon Capps and Shane Fonner, who favor a luxurious, beachy look, is “Abundant Life Crusade.” July 12, 9 p.m., Rose Bar at the Gramercy Park Hotel, 2 Lexington Avenue
The N. Hoolywood designer, Daisuke Obana, who hails from Japan, always does his own thing, grounding his occasionally out-there looks in tradition. July 11, 5 p.m., 459 West 15th Street
Critics have fallen for Emily Bode’s patchwork sensibility, like her quilted workwear jacket. Ms. Bode is a collector, a remixer, a postmodern fashion dreamer. July 13, 11 a.m. to noon.
The Korean designer behind this label, Bumsuk Choi, has named his spring 2018 collection Phono Sapiens. July 13, 2 p.m.
New York Men’s Day, morning session
New York Men’s Day is an appetizer of sorts to the three main days of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, and it focuses on 12 up-and-coming or out-of-the-mainstream brands during its morning and afternoon sessions. Krammer & Stoudt: The designer Mike Rubin takes his cues from the Southern California skate and surf scenes for his five-year-old brand, which also offers a made-to-measure program. David Hart: For spring 2018, this New York designer looks to Cuba for inspiration. Bristol: Luke Tadashi and Tommy Nowels of Los Angeles fabricate their sportswear in elite Japanese mills. Daniel Hechter: Showing in the United States for the first time in the brand’s 55-year history, Christophe Blondin-Péchabrier will look to match classic spring fabrics like seersucker with computer-designed floral patterns. Wood House: Lots of men’s wear designers take their inspiration from the military; Julian Woodhouse lives it. The full-time soldier marks his return to the United States after being stationed in South Korea, with forward-looking athleisure and outerwear. Head of State: Started in 2016 by then-17-year-old Taofeek Abijako, the line looks to African colonialism for its upscale, graphic-heavy streetwear. Dune Studios, 55 Water Street, 10:30 a.m. to noon.
New York Men’s Day, afternoon session
Private Policy: Having graduated from Parsons School of Design in 2015, the partners Haoran Li and Siying Qu design men’s and women’s wear for a candy-colored dystopian future. Maiden Noir: Designed in Seattle and made in Japan, Nin Truong’s monochromatic drawstring pants, sweatshirts and shorts are appropriate for the upper echelons of an urban phys. ed. class. R. Swiader: The soft draping of Raf Swiader’s materials are at the heart of a men’s wear brand that aims to fulfill a “utilitarian lifestyle” (his words). Descendant of Thieves: Specializing in shirts and knit tops, the staples designed by Dres Ladro and Matteo Maniatty carry a whiff of their Mediterranean heritage. Heliot Emil: The Copenhagen brand is drastically minimalist and impertinently unisex. Dune Studios, 55 Water Street, 4:30 to 6 p.m.
Following an eclectic fall 2017 debut inspired by the film “The Outsiders,” this young New Yorker is looking to gain more support from the industry. July 11, 1 to 2:30 p.m., Restaurant at Rose Hill, 34 East 32nd Street
EFM Engineered for Motion
The label EFM Engineered for Motion, designed by Donrad Duncan, will take another stab at the future of sportswear. July 12, 10 a.m.
Kenneth Ning, who got his training at Michael Kors, takes the traditional American sportswear archetype and infuses it with the looseness of his hometown, San Francisco. July 12, noon, Cadillac House, 330 Hudson Street
The designers behind Deveaux — Matt Breen, Patrick Doss and Andrea Tsao — are dedicated to tailoring and dressing men like grown-ups. Their made-in-the-U.S.A. collection offers clean takes on luxurious sportswear for both men and women that look impressive, as opposed to “OMG” or “tight.” July 12, 1 to 2 p.m., En Japanese Brasserie, 435 Hudson Street
The Landlord designer, Ryohei Kawanishi, specializes in blasts of color, with proportions borne of an unfettered imagination. This season’s collection is reggae-inspired. July 12, 3 p.m.
For Luar, Raul Lopez, a founder of Hood by Air, makes minidresses and thigh-highs for men, as well as too-long-on-purpose T-shirts and shorts. His clothes don’t challenge gender; they’re postgender. July 13, noon, Cadillac House, 330 Hudson Street
Sam Linder and Kirk Millar, who own the boutique Linder in SoHo, ventured into women’s wear in February. It seemed like a natural progression for a brand known for its experimental men’s wear. July 13, 1 p.m., 237 East 18th Street
Teddy Ondo Ella
The Gabonese designer will introduce New York to his signature Abacost suit, the centerpiece of a collection that marries European and African styles. July 10, 3 p.m., Artbeam Gallery, 540 West 21st Street
Bárbara Sánchez-Kane, an illustrator and artist with an engineering degree, has an innovative men’s wear line worth checking out. July 12, 7 p.m.
CH24 Los Angeles
For those without chemistry degrees, C2H4 is the molecular formula for ethylene, which ripens plants. C2H4 Los Angeles is a streetwear brand committed to being not just another streetwear brand. It is designed by Yixi Chen, who comes from Shanghai and has a thing for denim. July 13, 7 p.m.
Parke & Ronen
Who wears short shorts? Models for the Parke & Ronen do. To celebrate its 20th anniversary, the label has invited members of the press and special guests backstage before the runway show for a peek at the “notoriously hunky models” as they rehearse their walks. July 12, 2 p.m.
The swimsuits and tops, offered by Garrett Neff, Katama’s founder, are amicably retro. Mr. Neff named his label after Katama Bay in Massachusetts, where he spent his childhood summers. July 12, 9 to 10 a.m., Grand Banks, Pier 25.
George Sotelo’s swimwear for men is all funky colors and patterns applied to traditionally cut bathing trunks that come in two styles: Apollo and Titan. July 12, 5 to 7 p.m., 172 Madison Avenue, penthouse.
The Scotsman Nicholas Elliott has his own idea of streetwear that has included such pieces as a military jacket reminiscent of the one worn by Chairman Mao. July 11, 2 p.m.
Feng Chen Wang
One of the few women showing during the week, Feng Chen Wang has previously displayed her namesake label’s wares with VFILES. Look for inventive outfits that have, in the past, balanced leather briefs with the world’s puffiest jacket. July 11, 10 a.m.
Manchester, England, is home to Represent. After the city’s traumatic spring, it will be fascinating to see if, and how, the collection reflects the turbulent times. July 13, 10 a.m.